The Taste of a City

 
There are certain flavours that belong to the streets of Istanbul: they range from mussels stuffed with herbed rice (Midye Dolması), or grilled mutton intestines (Kokorec) to the popular Tavuk Pilav - rice with chickpeas and shredded chicken. Street vendors sell these traditional snacks from carts, filling stomachs for as little as TL1-4 ($2). However, the number of mobile snack sellers on the Golden Horn is continuously decreasing.
 
"There are two types of street food," says Hande Bozdogan, founder and manager of Istanbul Culinary Institute: "prepared meals and raw food ready for preparation." Both share a long tradition in Istanbul, though street food in general has an even richer tradition in the South of Turkey, where - due to continuously warm temperatures - life, including meals, mostly takes place outside. Immigrants from all parts of the country, turning to selling street food as a first way of making a living in the megacity, have highly contributed to the abounding mix of different regional foods on the streets.
 
The raw fare sold from little carts taking fixed routes through the neighbourhoods of Istanbul include such items as peeled artichokes, disembowelled fresh fish, peeled quince or cucumbers. "People will know exactly, at what time to expect these vendors in their streets," says Bozdogan. They are especially popular with housewives who enjoy the convenience of buying in front of their house at more economic prices than at the supermarkets that are mushrooming outside the city center.
 

 
Typically, milk and yoghurt vendors were also roaming the streets selling their products out of big basins to which people would bring their own containers. However, tightened hygiene regulations are increasingly pulling the plug on these businesses.
 
"With the introduction of EU-standards, you see less and less street food in Istanbul," regrets Bozdogan, who herself has done thorough research on the subject. "Five years ago, the scene was still much more lively and diverse." Besides, these new regulations are changing the way foodstuffs are being offered: simit, the popular Turkish bagel, for example, is now displayed behind glass windows instead of on an open cart. Other global influences are changing the offers in themselves: exotic fruits such as coconuts and pineapples, for example, have entered the product line of the local juice vendors (fresh fruit juice, ayran and pickle juice are popular street drinks).
 
In spite of these recent developments, the current economic crisis has brought back a number of street vendors, among them not only immigrants but also out-of-work white collar workers. "Street food has always provided an income to the unemployed", says Bozdogan: "Generally, women prepare the foodstuffs at home which their husbands or sons then sell on the streets." They are unofficially employed and thus pay no tax. Nevertheless, they are tolerated by the authorities. The exact number of street vendors in Istanbul is unknown.
 

 
Where then are those home-made dishes sold? "Street food is the food of the poor," explains Bozdogan, "accordingly you won't find many vendors in the posh areas of Istanbul." Many sellers have fixed routes along which they push their stalls during the day. However, there are some foods special to certain areas of the city. While many different vendors gather around Galata Tower at noon selling sandwiches, juices, roasted chestnuts, simit, quinces or meatballs to hungry employees during lunch break, the Karaköy area is famous for its stuffed mussels. On the shores of Eminönü traditional fish- and-bread sandwiches are sold directly off the boats. Close to the landing place near the Ömer Avni neighbourhood, rice with chickpeas and shredded chicken is the dish to eat. "During soccer games or other events, vendors from all over the city gather in a steaming ring around the stadium," adds Bozdogan. Very popular on such occasions: kokorec, grilled mutton intestines.
 

 

Articles also included in this Report:

 
  Let's Order In! 
 
But where and what? He likes burgers, she wants seafood, and the kids crave kebap and pizza. No problem - if you have a website like Turkey's yemeksepeti.com at hand. It combines the delivery offers of numerous foodservice operators providing information about menus, promotions and more. With just a few clicks, every family member can choose and order whatever he or she likes from whichever place they prefer - all on one website. http://www.yemeksepeti.com/
 
  Big & Beautiful 
 
Originally opened in 2007 in Ankara (now 3 outlets), Big Chefs has by now also entered the markets of Istanbul (2) and Gaziantep (1). The all-day restaurant formula with a strong focus on design and a vibrant, sophisticated cuisine was developed by a genial and spirited woman, whose love for detail and perfection shows in every concept element.
 

 
| 19 February 2010 |