Out Is In

 
From the far north to the shores of the Mediterranean: hardly has the snow thawed or the winter rains passed before Europe’s guests between Stockholm and Sevilla move their chairs outside. Outdoor foodservice is booming – in classic beer gardens no less than at trendy beach bars in the city centre. And, between tradition and the avant-garde, the terrace biotope is blooming: on patios, at tree height, embedded in gardens or close to the water.
 

 

 
In Mayerling in the heart of the Vienna Woods, award-winning chef Heinz Hanner has created an extraordinary establishment. The Hannerwas built a few years ago in an idyllic valley: a 20-room hotel with a restaurant and conference facilities of the highest standard; an architectural statement in wood, stone and glass embedded in a wonderful garden landscape. For guests, there is a 240 sq m biotope and a fireplace. The art and sculpture garden is perfect for relaxation and contemplation. Criteria that were vital for the complex, such as integration in the landscape and the harmony of the architecture with the surroundings, also apply to the 30-seat outdoor area (indoor restaurant: 50 seats in 3 rooms, Bistro Hanner Léger 40 seats, Bar 10 seats). Inside and outside in an intimate dialogue: the terrace abuts a pool with koi carp, on which circular sculptures appear to float and create a link to the sculpture garden immediately behind it. “The calm water surface cools and soothes the eyes”, says Hanner, who had the main kitchen fitted with a huge glass front to give a clear view of the woods and herb garden. The design of the indoor and outdoor areas also leaves no doubt about the culinary aims of the chef: a philosophy that aims to find a balance: classic and avant-garde, international and regional. “A cuisine deeply rooted in old customs and recipes, which are given a new and modern interpretation using contemporary cooking technology.” Hanner calls it brain food: food that expands the boundaries of taste and awareness.
 
www.hanner.cc
 

 

 
Necessity is the mother of invention: opened in 1998, Pier 17 in Salzburg – a restaurant/bar focusing on fish – originally had no outdoor seating. The upshot according to proprietor Heiner Raschhofer was a drop in revenues during the summer months. To counteract this, a terrace was added to the 75-seat, first-floor restaurant five years ago: the I-beam, wooden-floored construction measures 13x10 m and can accommodate up to 85 outdoor guests. Particularly attractive: no trees had to be felled to make room for the terrace so fresh-air fans have the feeling of being surrounded by greenery. “The absolute hit in the summer”, says Raschhofer. Thanks to radiant heaters, the outdoor season lasts a good seven months – an extremely long time for Salzburg – while, during the summer months, fans ensure a cool breeze under the leafy roof. Today, the terrace looks almost like a tree house following rebuilding in 2006 and now boasts a roof and its own bar. Atmospheric details: warm, natural shades, a bench all round the sides, lots of indirect lighting. “The location of Pier 17 is actually rather unattractive on the edge of town. However, the combination of high-quality food and wines in an uncomplicated atmosphere (no tablecloths!), good parking and, in particular, the unique outdoor area attract the in-crowd from the town centre.”
 
www.raschhofer.at
 

 

 
Horticulture is Britain’s second most popular participation activity (after fishing) and when they are not digging up flower beds and pushing their mowers, English gardeners spend a lot of time sourcing garden products, annual sales of which have doubled on the past 20 years; current UK expenditure is thought to exceed GBP5,200 m. The most important outlets for these products are 3,000-plus sq m garden centres, many of which now augment their plants and garden tools with catering. One of the most innovative examples of foodservice can be seen at Petersham Nurseries, located in a series of ageing greenhouses in a historic riverside meadow near the affluent suburb of Richmond-on-Thames. Thanks partly to its eccentric but beautifully displayed range of plants and domestic merchandise and partly to the recruitment of well-known chef and food writer Skye Gyngell, the Nurseries have recently become a significant eating-out destination. Its restaurant, in a centrally located and partially al fresco area, is often fully booked for lunches with an average spend per head exceeding GBP30-40 (and a lot more when guests dip into the wine and champagne list). An adjoining cafe sells more modestly priced hot drinks, soups, sandwiches and cakes through the day. The 100-plus seats and tables haphazardly located among the eclectic nursery and home fashion products adds to a bucolic setting.
 
www.petershamnurseries.com
 

 
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| 13 June 2008 |